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   A. Beattie   PawManagement.co.uk

       Experience & Expertise Since 1982

     ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

    BEHAVIOUR SPECIALIST

     OBEDIENCE TRAINING &

   Companion Dog GUNDOG TRAINING


    Across Lanarkshire & West Lothian



Behaviour Services

Cessation & Solutions for Challenging and Dangerous Behaviours


Behavioural concerns are generally natural behaviours used out of context, excessively, compulsively or obsessively.


We regularly see clients struggling with issues such as..


Pediatric Behaviour Problems in Dogs

Hyperactivity and Unruliness

Stealing Things

Rough Play

Constant Biting

Chasing After Moving Things

Inappropriate Elimination

Jumping Up on People

Separation Anxiety

Excessive Barking

Aggressive Behaviour

Begging for Food

Jumping on Furniture

Mouthing

Digging

Generalised Anxiety

Destructive Chewing

Excessive Licking

Fear of Noises

Fears & Phobias

Shadow/Light Chasing

Disobedience

Being Overprotective of Family

Leash Pulling

Whining for Attention

Being Overprotective of Property

Humping

Escaping

Eating Poop /

Pica..ingesting non food items


Message us about your behaviour needs and we will get the process started to help.




OVER AROUSED/HYPER ACTIVE/PREY DRIVE / full morning in session

Where your dogs ability to walk on the lead is stunted due to high prey-drive or reactions to the environment ..hyper-arousal .. hyper vigilant ...over excited ..he's jumping around ..pulling, lunging, surging forward to track scent etc - we'd probably suggest a full morning in a behaviour session for hyper-arousal so that we can address the real cause of the problem.

AROUSAL CONTROL /Drive Control /Over Excited    £195




DOG REACTIVE /frustrated Greeter /Fearful /Cautious. ..Leash reactivity ( is ok with other dogs off the lead, but reacts when restrained)     £245

Allow a full morning... 

The service includes, Pre-consultation assessment of needs, Post session admin to cover the work involved in order to progress, Demonstration, Treatment program, Possible demonstration/stooge dogs, Ongoing help to support the process.

Further progression and maintenance by agreement


The service includes, Pre-consultation assessment of needs, Post session admin to cover the work involved in order to progress, Demonstration, Treatment program, Possible demonstration/stooge dogs, Ongoing help to support the process.


Further progression sessions and maintenance by appointment.




MILD BEHAVIOUR ISSUES eg. separation distress (does not include aggression towards people) 

£195




MULTIPLE MILD PROBLEMATIC BEHAVIOURS (does not include aggression towards people) 

£245




DOG-AGGRESSIVE (does not include aggression or intended aggression towards people) ON & OFF LEASH 

£295




Serious PROBLEMATIC BEHAVIOUR ...EG. Resource Guarding from other dogs, in multi dog household issues. 

Guarding possessions from people (without bite history)

£295


I see Resource Guarding problems (especially with Cockers) a lot, It’s very common in the breed and other hunting dogs ..it's part of the hunting sequence but can vary in degrees of aggression and the items that are guarded) 


See here for more information..

https://pawmanagement.co.uk/hunting-working-controlled-instincts


There’s a lot to cover with this problem, so while you wait for your appointment,

Here are a few tips:


Do not confront or chase the dog - this actually makes the aggression much worse for the next time.

If he's in danger of grabbing something dangerous..you will have to clear things away and not provide any toys or chews that may become a choke hazard.


Teach a good in-house recall


Start to teach him that human hands never take things away from him and are good


Stop swapping/trading..this is a dog who is already in a high state of arousal ..having two things on the table is two things to attempt to guard.. double the stress..he will know you want one of them and still fears that loss. Next time he'll be suspicious of your approach.


These things will be covered in detail during your session.




HAS A BITE HISTORY (OTHER DOGS)   

£395



TERRITORIAL AGGRESSION /STRANGER AGGRESSIVE/ANY AGGRESSION or intended aggression TOWARDS PEOPLE / Resource guarding with bite history - CONTACT US FOR A TAILORED QUOTE FROM £495

£495.00 +



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We reserve the right to decline to work with certain breeds of dog or certain breed traits where contacting another trainer with specialist knowledge of that breed would benefit your you and your dog better.

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So where does your dog's behaviour come from?.

The need for safety. - defense drive 

The need for survival - predatory drive 

The need to protect the group/species - social drive 


How much have you matched with training?


The predatory sequence begins with your dog seeking prey by order of information gathered via his senses.


Orientation:

Locating prey through orientation .. behaviours such as ground scenting, air-scenting, determining the wind direction and speed of wind, scanning the environment with his eyes for any movement &/or ears for sounds. 


Stalking

As soon as the dog has located the sounds, sight or scent of possible prey, he will start to hunt down, creep or stalk the prey.

At this time his body tenses, blood is pumped hard and fast, the heart-rate increases, the muscles need to be warm, oxygen needs to be pumped, the ears will filter out unnecessary sounds, (sounds of prey or predation will take precedence) the pupils dilate to take in as much information on the target as needed...etc . There are many neuro physiological changes taking place to put him into optimum efficiency.


Closer to his quarry, with it in sight, he will slowly, silently & carefully creep forward (stalking/setting/pointing) closing in as close as possible to the targeted prey. (Unless he's a terrier, terriers and some other hunters use confusion, startle and panic to move the quarry in a frantic manner) & take opportunity to pounce or flush it suddenly in order to chase.


Chasing

The chase part of the predatory sequence is where many companion dog owners only just notice the dog is predating something. 

The quarry may tire or attempt to find safety. 


The Grab-hold bite:

Contain/Bite to kill/Shake to kill:

If the dog is lucky and gets close enough to his prey, he will then contain the animal, grab-bite to prevent the animal from escaping, kill-bite the prey animal, or swiftly dispatch the animal with a neck breaking shake.


Possession:. 

(not all dogs will do this and those that do may not do it every time ..however it helps to explain why hunting dogs (that don't have training that ventures into allowing for their natural behaviours can be very quick to start guarding possessions)


Shredding stripping the animal of fur/feathers, dissection and consumption (sometimes just for the semi-digested contents of the animals stomach)

 

After the animal is dispatched, the dog will often hold on to the prey animal, parading with it for a little time, this can be accompanied by whining or crying vocalisations.. before stressfully finding a safe place to store it for later and cover it over, or to eat it in peace. If stored, your dog will carry on protecting his valuables.


(All behaviours you will have witnessed in your home with toys or treats of high value if you have a dog that has high level instinctive behaviours).. & why something found or stolen (hunted) is of higher value.




BEFORE YOU BOOK - Behaviour issue?   Sudden behaviour change?   Have you seen a vet?


By eliminating anything medical before treating the dogs behaviour we can then formulate a behaviour program for your dog.


Daytimes and weekends available - mornings only / Not available for evening appointments


Don't forget to look at our videos on you tube..

Click the link below to go to our you tube channel

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEDYvO3yWzw-RlVXYgIhAQQ


 07787 402 759

Email  [email protected]

www.facebook.com/pawmanagement.co.uk



Our Muzzle protocols.

Even if your dog hasn’t bitten you, anyone else, or another dog, if you were to let go of his lead, if his equipment broke, if he escaped the house or garden and would cause damage to another being, placing him in a novel environment, adding training that he is not familiar with, with unfamiliar people/dogs, could very easily change that.


One nip, one grab of someone's clothing, even done in communication is all it would take for consequences to him and you to be out of your control.


We don't take chances with your dog, and the safety of the the public takes first priority.


For many cases where the dog could use aggression we ask clients to muzzle condition the dog prior to the training program, *   so that you can relax and so the dog doesn’t end up with a possible bite history on his record and proceedings are started against you.

If you have a dog with any kind of aggression issues, Aggression isn't something to be toyed with.

* For muzzle training see below


Aftercare support is given by email /messages and phone support whenever you need and further sessions can be purchased in any of our services.



What to expect from a behaviour consultation and assessment.

The behaviour consultation starts with an evaluation by means of a comprehensive questionnaire, this can sometimes be done before the consultation to save you time during the session.


The consultation itself usually lasts for half a day, most often we will meet out of doors in an appropriate venue, during which, we will be making observations and we will start to form a program that we can discuss and demonstrate, change accordingly to your needs or your dogs needs, we may want to try to see the behaviour problem although we won't provoke a response, only to see what behaviour may normally be experienced in a given situation.


We will explain fully what is motivating the behaviour. It may be that your dog will need some skills putting in place first, in order to follow the program.

So thats where we begin, and we work through the program part by part. 

Once back in the office we then prepare your notes to support the session and email them to you.


A follow up visit may be suggested...we may require assistance from sources such as stooge dogs / decoy dogs / decoy children / events etc..

These often need to be booked and paid for in advance. 


If you then decide that you would like further sessions to progress - some clients find that they lack confidence in their own ability and the support at this time can really help with the 'real world' happenings and how to handle them...you can choose from the other services that we offer at this point.


We Are based in Law Village, Carluke and welcome you to join us in the village, or 


Law Village - Sth Lanarks

Carluke Runfree field - Sth Lanarks

Milton Nature Trail - Carluke, Sth Lanarks  (train station)

Paws Unleashed private dog park, Lesmahagow, Carlisle Road, B7078 - Sth Lanarks

Greenhead Moss - Nth Lanarks

Chatelherault Estate - Nth Lanarks  (train station)

Mauldslie Bridge/Clyde Walkway - Sth Lanarks

Strathclyde Country Park - Nth Lanarks

Lanark Loch- Sth Lanarks

Polkemmet Country Park - West Lothian

Black Law Wind farm, Forth - West Lothian


We use venues that are assessed for safety,.. (Ours as much as yours and that of your dog) familiarity, suitability and the challenges that they each offer.. So please don't ask that we meet you in your local park. 



If there is any chance that any of our stooge dogs, ourselves or anyone working with us is likely to be bitten...

If your dog is likely to bite any passing dog or person... lets imagine the door was left open at home, or the lead broke while out on a walk, if your dog would be likely to injure another dog or a person, then before we embark on any training, so that he is safe from consequences of such, and the general public are safe and have no cause for concern.. we request that a muzzle is conditioned and fitted correctly beforehand.



Muzzle training..

If you know your dog has any potential to be aggressive, then it is a risk to your dogs security and the health and safety of others by not taking suitable precautions. This may not mean that you need to muzzle your dog in all situations; only those in which there is a potential for any injury or fear of injury, based on how your dog has reacted in similar situations in the past.


Muzzles might be advisable in those situations where the dog might become fearful or defensive, even if the dog has not yet displayed aggressive tendencies.

Muzzles can cause welfare problems if they are not used appropriately. If you follow the guidelines below, your dog should be perfectly ok with being muzzled.


The most common errors are to only use a muzzle when something nasty is going to happen to your dog (e.g., when he is about to be injected),

To expect your dog to instantly accept the muzzle, or to leave the muzzle on excessively. However, it is important to realise that a dog cannot pant effectively when wearing a sleeve type muzzle and may overheat in hot weather.


There are two common types of muzzle, the basket muzzle and the sleeve muzzle. Both have their uses. The basket muzzle allows your dog more freedom to pant and drink if properly fitted.

The sleeve muzzle prevents the dog from opening its mouth, (and may lead to overheating if left on the dog too long since it restricts panting and drinking) ok for short vet visits etc.. Some sleeve muzzles have a mesh covering over the end to provide for a looser fit and more opportunity to pant, while others have a medium-size opening at the end for the nose and mouth, through which small tidbits can also be given. However, the dog may still nip with this latter type of muzzle.


An offence has been committed should anyone fear for their safety due to the dogs behaviour.


How do I train my dog to enjoy being muzzled?

It is important to find an effective and comfortable muzzle for your dog. This may take a bit of time but it is worth shopping around. Some muzzles can be easily slipped off by pawing at them. A properly fitted muzzle should be difficult if not impossible for your dog to remove.

Some muzzles come with (or can be affixed with) a strap that attaches from the muzzle over the top of the dog’s head (passing between the eyes) to the dog’s collar so that it cannot be pulled off by the dog.


The first time you muzzle your dog should not be in a conflict or fearful situation.

The first time you muzzle your dog should not be in a conflict or fearful situation. Instead, it should be introduced to your dog in a slow, progressive manner while the dog is calm. Show your dog the muzzle, let him sniff to investigate it and give him a treat before putting the muzzle away.


Repeat this procedure several times. This starts to build a positive association with the muzzle.

Next, hold the muzzle in front of your dog’s face, position the muzzle as if you would be placing it on your dog, place some treats inside and encourage him to take them out. Gradually place the treats further inside so that he sticks his head all the way into the muzzle. Then, slip the muzzle on for a few seconds without fastening it and reward your dog when you take it off.


Slowly increase the time you leave it on from a few seconds to a minute or more and only reward your dog if he remains calm. Be sure to set things up so your dog succeeds, by only placing the muzzle on for a short time. You must only remove the muzzle when the dog is calm and quiet, not when it is fussing or pawing. Each time you offer the muzzle to your dog try placing treats inside for a pleasant association with the procedure.


When the muzzle is on, you can offer treats through the side as well. The length of time that it is left on needs to be increased gradually. Once your dog accepts the muzzle, you can try fastening it. Again, the length of time that it is left on needs to be increased gradually. While the muzzle is on the dog, you can reward him with affection or play (if he can be sufficiently distracted that he does not show any fear). If your dog enjoys walks or games of chase, this might be enough of a diversion to help him or her adapt to the muzzle more quickly. The longer the time that the muzzle is left on, the greater the reward should be when it comes off, particularly if your dog has made no effort to remove it. You should aim to work toward keeping your dog muzzled for about 30 minutes. The goal is to only remove the muzzle when the dog is calm and quiet, not struggling. If you remove the muzzle immediately after the dog struggles or paws at it, the dog may learn that these actions get the muzzle removed. Using treats intermittently throughout the process will help many dogs adjust.

Start muzzling your dog before you go for walks, but continue to avoid situations that might lead to fear, anxiety or conflict for your dog.


If you feel you must take the muzzle off for some of the time, do it when you start to head home and get your dog to keep to a close heel on the lead after removing the muzzle.


Always give him lots of praise when you take the muzzle off. Once this routine has been established, your dog should be muzzled before you encounter known conflict or problem situations.


Your dog should still be muzzled at other times for play and walks so that he does not start to resent or predict these few necessary occasions.

Some dogs can also wear a head halter underneath the muzzle for additional control.

You should never remove the muzzle when your pet is trying to remove it.

The important rule is to work at a rate that your dog can accept and cope with.

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