Cessation & Solutions for Challenging and Dangerous Behaviours

Behavioural concerns are generally natural behaviours used out of context, excessively, compulsively or obsessively.

We regularly see clients struggling with issues such as..

Pediatric Behaviour Problems in Dogs

Hyperactivity and Unruliness

Stealing Things

Rough Play

Constant Biting

Chasing After Moving Things

Inappropriate Elimination

Jumping Up on People

Separation Anxiety

Excessive Barking

Aggressive Behaviour

Begging for Food

Jumping on Furniture

Mouthing

Digging

Generalised Anxiety

Destructive Chewing

Excessive Licking

Fear of Noises

Fears & Phobias

Shadow/Light Chasing

Disobedience

Being Overprotective of Family

Leash Pulling

Whining for Attention

Being Overprotective of Property

Humping

Escaping

Eating Poop /

Pica..ingesting non food items

Message us about your behaviour needs and we will get the process started to help.

OVER AROUSED/HYPER ACTIVE/PREY DRIVE / full morning in session

Where your dogs ability to walk on the lead is stunted due to high prey-drive or reactions to the environment ..hyper-arousal .. hyper vigilant ...over excited ..he's jumping around ..pulling, lunging, surging forward to track scent etc - we'd probably suggest a full morning in a behaviour session for hyper-arousal so that we can address the real cause of the problem.

AROUSAL CONTROL /Drive Control /Over Excited £195

DOG REACTIVE /frustrated Greeter /Fearful /Cautious. ..Leash reactivity ( is ok with other dogs off the lead, but reacts when restrained)     

£245

Allow a full morning... 

The service includes, Pre-consultation assessment of needs, Post session admin to cover the work involved in order to progress, Demonstration, Treatment program, Possible demonstration/stooge dogs, Ongoing help to support the process.

Further progression and maintenance by agreement

The service includes, Pre-consultation assessment of needs, Post session admin to cover the work involved in order to progress, Demonstration, Treatment program, Possible demonstration/stooge dogs, Ongoing help to support the process.

Further progression sessions and maintenance by appointment.

MILD BEHAVIOUR ISSUES eg. separation distress (does not include aggression towards people) 

£195

MULTIPLE MILD PROBLEMATIC BEHAVIOURS (does not include aggression towards people) 

£245.00

DOG-AGGRESSIVE (does not include aggression towards people) ON & OFF LEASH 

£295

Serious PROBLEMATIC BEHAVIOUR ...EG. Resource Guarding /multi dog household issues

£295

HAS A BITE HISTORY (OTHER DOGS) £395

£395.00

TERRITORIAL AGGRESSION /STRANGER AGGRESSIVE/ANY AGGRESSION TOWARDS PEOPLE - CONTACT US FOR A TAILORED QUOTE FROM £495

£495.00 +

We reserve the right to decline to work with certain breeds of dog where contacting another trainer with specialist knowledge of that breed would benefit your you and your dog better.

BEFORE YOU BOOK - Behaviour issue?   Sudden behaviour change?   Have you seen a vet?

By eliminating anything medical before treating the dogs behaviour we can then formulate a behaviour program for your dog.

Daytimes and weekends available - mornings only / Not available for evening appointments

Don't forget to look at our videos on you tube..

Click the link below to go to our you tube channel

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEDYvO3yWzw-RlVXYgIhAQQ

 07787 402 759

Email  [email protected]ail.com

www.facebook.com/pawmanagement.co.uk

Our Muzzle protocols.

Even if your dog hasn’t bitten you, anyone else, or another dog, if you were to let go of his lead, if his equipment broke, if he escaped the house or garden and would cause damage to another being, placing him in a novel environment, adding training that he is not familiar with, with unfamiliar people/dogs, could very easily change that.

One nip, one grab of someone's clothing, even done in communication is all it would take for consequences to him and you to be out of your control.

We don't take chances with your dog, and the safety of the the public takes first priority.

For many cases where the dog could use aggression we ask clients to muzzle condition the dog prior to the training program, *   so that you can relax and so the dog doesn’t end up with a possible bite history on his record and proceedings are started against you.

If you have a dog with any kind of aggression issues, Aggression isn't something to be toyed with.

* For muzzle training see below

Aftercare support is given by email /messages and phone support whenever you need and further sessions can be purchased in any of our services.

What to expect from a behaviour consultation and assessment.

The behaviour consultation starts with an evaluation by means of a comprehensive questionnaire, this can sometimes be done before the consultation to save you time during the session.

The consultation itself usually lasts for half a day, most often we will meet out of doors in an appropriate venue, during which, we will be making observations and we will start to form a program that we can discuss and demonstrate, change accordingly to your needs or your dogs needs, we may want to try to see the behaviour problem although we won't provoke a response, only to see what behaviour may normally be experienced in a given situation.

We will explain fully what is motivating the behaviour. It may be that your dog will need some skills putting in place first, in order to follow the program.

So thats where we begin, and we work through the program part by part. 

Once back in the office we then prepare your notes to support the session and email them to you.

A follow up visit may be suggested...we may require assistance from sources such as stooge dogs / decoy dogs / decoy children / events etc..

These often need to be booked and paid for in advance. 

If you then decide that you would like further sessions to progress - some clients find that they lack confidence in their own ability and the support at this time can really help with the 'real world' happenings and how to handle them...you can choose from the other services that we offer at this point.

We Are based in Law Village, Carluke and welcome you to join us in the village, or 

Law Village - Sth Lanarks

Carluke Runfree field - Sth Lanarks

Milton Nature Trail - Carluke, Sth Lanarks  (train station)

Greenhead Moss - Nth Lanarks

Chatelherault Estate - Nth Lanarks  (train station)

Mauldslie Bridge/Clyde Walkway - Sth Lanarks

Strathclyde Country Park - Nth Lanarks

Lanark Loch- Sth Lanarks

Polkemmet Country Park - West Lothian

Risk Assessed Outdoor Venues*.. or Home Visits? 

You may feel that your dog would be best seen in the home where the behaviours you are struggling with are performed most.. on occasion this may be true, it won't be the same for everyone, however, in the first instance, to come along and address the symptom is not addressing the cause.

Trust that we have 40 years of experience. 

*We use venues that are assessed for safety,.. (Ours as much as yours and that of your dog) familiarity, suitability and the challenges that they each offer.. So please don't ask that we meet you in your local park. 

Bottom line.. you'd not learn how to control your car, learn to drive and learn the rules of the road while on the motorway 😬 learning skills in a less arousing environment can often be of more benefit.

If there is any chance that any of our stooge dogs, ourselves or anyone working with us is likely to be bitten...

If your dog is likely to bite any passing dog or person... lets imagine the door was left open at home, or the lead broke while out on a walk, if your dog would be likely to injure another dog or a person, then before we embark on any training, so that he is safe from consequences of such, and the general public are safe and have no cause for concern.. we request that a muzzle is conditioned and fitted correctly beforehand.

Muzzle training..

If you know your dog has any potential to be aggressive, then it is a risk to your dogs security and the health and safety of others by not taking suitable precautions. This may not mean that you need to muzzle your dog in all situations; only those in which there is a potential for any injury or fear of injury, based on how your dog has reacted in similar situations in the past.

Muzzles might be advisable in those situations where the dog might become fearful or defensive, even if the dog has not yet displayed aggressive tendencies.

Muzzles can cause welfare problems if they are not used appropriately. If you follow the guidelines below, your dog should be perfectly ok with being muzzled.

The most common errors are to only use a muzzle when something nasty is going to happen to your dog (e.g., when he is about to be injected),

To expect your dog to instantly accept the muzzle, or to leave the muzzle on excessively. However, it is important to realise that a dog cannot pant effectively when wearing a sleeve type muzzle and may overheat in hot weather.

There are two common types of muzzle, the basket muzzle and the sleeve muzzle. Both have their uses. The basket muzzle allows your dog more freedom to pant and drink if properly fitted.

The sleeve muzzle prevents the dog from opening its mouth, (and may lead to overheating if left on the dog too long since it restricts panting and drinking) ok for short vet visits etc.. Some sleeve muzzles have a mesh covering over the end to provide for a looser fit and more opportunity to pant, while others have a medium-size opening at the end for the nose and mouth, through which small tidbits can also be given. However, the dog may still nip with this latter type of muzzle.

An offence has been committed should anyone fear for their safety due to the dogs behaviour.

How do I train my dog to enjoy being muzzled?

It is important to find an effective and comfortable muzzle for your dog. This may take a bit of time but it is worth shopping around. Some muzzles can be easily slipped off by pawing at them. A properly fitted muzzle should be difficult if not impossible for your dog to remove.

Some muzzles come with (or can be affixed with) a strap that attaches from the muzzle over the top of the dog’s head (passing between the eyes) to the dog’s collar so that it cannot be pulled off by the dog.

The first time you muzzle your dog should not be in a conflict or fearful situation.

The first time you muzzle your dog should not be in a conflict or fearful situation. Instead, it should be introduced to your dog in a slow, progressive manner while the dog is calm. Show your dog the muzzle, let him sniff to investigate it and give him a treat before putting the muzzle away.

Repeat this procedure several times. This starts to build a positive association with the muzzle.

Next, hold the muzzle in front of your dog’s face, position the muzzle as if you would be placing it on your dog, place some treats inside and encourage him to take them out. Gradually place the treats further inside so that he sticks his head all the way into the muzzle. Then, slip the muzzle on for a few seconds without fastening it and reward your dog when you take it off.

Slowly increase the time you leave it on from a few seconds to a minute or more and only reward your dog if he remains calm. Be sure to set things up so your dog succeeds, by only placing the muzzle on for a short time. You must only remove the muzzle when the dog is calm and quiet, not when it is fussing or pawing. Each time you offer the muzzle to your dog try placing treats inside for a pleasant association with the procedure.

When the muzzle is on, you can offer treats through the side as well. The length of time that it is left on needs to be increased gradually. Once your dog accepts the muzzle, you can try fastening it. Again, the length of time that it is left on needs to be increased gradually. While the muzzle is on the dog, you can reward him with affection or play (if he can be sufficiently distracted that he does not show any fear). If your dog enjoys walks or games of chase, this might be enough of a diversion to help him or her adapt to the muzzle more quickly. The longer the time that the muzzle is left on, the greater the reward should be when it comes off, particularly if your dog has made no effort to remove it. You should aim to work toward keeping your dog muzzled for about 30 minutes. The goal is to only remove the muzzle when the dog is calm and quiet, not struggling. If you remove the muzzle immediately after the dog struggles or paws at it, the dog may learn that these actions get the muzzle removed. Using treats intermittently throughout the process will help many dogs adjust.

Start muzzling your dog before you go for walks, but continue to avoid situations that might lead to fear, anxiety or conflict for your dog.

If you feel you must take the muzzle off for some of the time, do it when you start to head home and get your dog to keep to a close heel on the lead after removing the muzzle.

Always give him lots of praise when you take the muzzle off. Once this routine has been established, your dog should be muzzled before you encounter known conflict or problem situations.

Your dog should still be muzzled at other times for play and walks so that he does not start to resent or predict these few necessary occasions.

Some dogs can also wear a head halter underneath the muzzle for additional control.

You should never remove the muzzle when your pet is trying to remove it.

The important rule is to work at a rate that your dog can accept and cope with.